Homeopathic treatments - do they work?

I was at my wits end last autumn (fall) when my normally clam horse was like a crazy horse! He was delusional and running around the paddocks - quickly turning them into mud. He was only happy while tied up with me standing next to him. He was not even calm in a yard.

I tried all the usual stuff - toxin binder, magnesium, valerian... but they didn't even touch the sides as far as making him calmer. He was always sweating and never eating so losing weight quickly - clearly this was not a healthy way for him to be in.

I finally found a book on Homeopathic Treatments for horses and called the author and described his symptoms to her. She sent me two bottles of clear liquid with instructions.

Two days later he was calm and out eating with the others.!!

I just got the news letter in the mail and wanted to share some of their remedies with you;

Rye Grass Staggers - GS node, then Minerals and Stramonium for delusional symptoms like my boy had.
Facial Eczema; FE node, Minerals, Hypericum, and Chelidonium

For us
Arnica for injuries and exhaustion
Apis for bee stings
Vespa  - wasp stings
Belladonna - sunburn
Sol - prevenative for sunburn - horses and humans

For more information go to www.farmsupport.co.nz 

Different feeds for horses

There is a multitude of feeds available - but you can actually make up the feeds yourself - once you know what to feed - and save yourself some money!

a) oats
Oats are a cereal and have a high starch content, therefore they yield energy and can have a heating effect on may horses. Good oats are plump, shiny and free of any dust, pale yellow in colour and they smell sweet. The oats are bruised to break the husk and to improve digestibility. Once bruised their nutritional value starts to decrease so they are best eaten within three weeks of bruising. Oats are low in protein and calcium and relatively high in phosphorous. Boiled oats are more fattening and have a less heating effect. Oats are usually fed to horses in high performance sports where fitness and stamina are important. Oats can make up 90% of the training horses concentrate but owners should be aware they lack in some amino acids and has a low calcium to phosphorous ratio.

b) barley
Barley is a high energy food and is low in protein and calcium and relatively high in phosphorous. The barley grain is rounder and plumper than the oat and have a clean shiny appearance - it should be cooked whole or crushed, flaked, heat treated or crimped. Barley can be used for up to 50% of the concentrate ration but no more because it is low in fibre. It suits horses in high performance sports where fitness and stamina are important. Horses in poor condition may benefit from part of their ration being boiled barley.

c) maize
Maize is a high energy feed and contains little fibre and is low in protein and calcium and high in phosphorous. It is normally fed cooked (but not boiled) and flaked and should be a bright golden colour as well as crisp and clean. Maize should not make up more than 25% of the horses ration. It is fattening and heating and not particularly digestible. Care must be taken with rations of maize as it can cause an allergic reaction. Maize can suit fussy eaters who tend to drop weight during intensive training.

d) linseed
Linseed is high in energy, high in protein and phosphorous and low in calcium. It supplies one of the most easily digestible forms of fat for a horse. Linseeds are the seed of the flax plant but cannot be fed raw or without soaking because the seeds contain prussic acid which is toxic to horses in large quantities. The seeds are small, dark brown and shiny. The seeds should be soaked overnight, and new water replaced and simmered for about one hour. It makes a tempting feed and is easily digested and it’s great for putting on condition and making the coat shine. It's a great source of Omega 3 without the added Omega 6 which should be given less generously.

e) beans and peas
Beans and peas are high energy and heating. They can be served split, heat-treated, crushed, crimped or flaked. Soya bean meal can be used for horses in intensive training because it provides a good source of protein.

f) bran
Bran is the offal from wheat and bran flakes should be broad, sweet smelling and pink. It is a low energy feed and is ideal for horses at rest because it acts as a bulk feed. The crude protein level is high but not of good quality and it is not easily digested. The calcium to phosphorous ratio is poor so a calcium supplement like limestone flour must be given if fed regularly.

g) sugar beet pulp
This is a very useful non heating feed and it is highly digestible and a good source of energy and fibre. The sugar is instantly converted into energy while the fibre is fermented in the large intestine. It has very good calcium to phosphorous ratios and can be used to correct calcium and phosphorous imbalances caused by cereals. It must be soaked in twice it’s weight of water for 12 hours before feeding. Cubes must be soaked in three times their weight of water for 24 hours.

h) chaff
Chaff is chopped lucerne, hay or oat straw, often mixed with molasses to improve it’s taste.

Limestone flour, garlic and other herbs can also be added to help balance the feed nutritionally;
e.g. alfalfa leaf is alkaline so it is beneficial in treating bladder irritations from over-acidity. It is antioxidant, and high in chlorophyll, protein, vitamins and trace minerals. Alfalfa has been used for years in the prevention of cancer. It inactivates carcinogens in the liver and small intestines before their growth causes major problems.

Burdock root is a blood cleanser, an anti-rheumatic, and has shown anti-tumour properties. It is great for any skin problems; eczema, psoriasis, allergic skin disorders, great for the liver. Loaded with calcium and phosphorus and B vitamins, burdock has a balanced diuretic action that helps the body eliminate waste materials. It helps in cleansing the body of environmental toxins and so takes a load off the liver and kidneys.


Dandelion leaves are full of minerals, trace minerals, vitamins and protein. Dandelion root is an excellent liver tonic and support. Nettle leaf has been used as a fortifying herb for centuries because it is full of minerals and trace minerals. It is especially effective for allergy symptoms in the respiratory tract and skin allergies when combined with burdock root. It is helpful for rheumatic conditions, blood pressure regulation and anaemia.

Animals have been treated for centuries with garlic for worms, bacteria, fungus, virus, ticks, lice and parasites. Garlic is ideal for respiratory disorders and the entire digestive system.

Flax seed provides omega 3 essential fatty acids which are important because they regulate response to pain and inflammation, regulate the flow of substances in and out of the cells, prevent blood cells from clumping together, are necessary for kidney function and fluid balance, regulating nerve transmission, are the primary energy source for the heart muscle, direct endocrine hormones to their proper destination, dilate or constrict blood vessels, regulate pressure in eye, joint and blood vessels, and regulate steroid production and hormone synthesis etc.

Nutritional yeast provides full spectrum of the B vitamins. Lecithin provides phosphatidylcholine for the brain, emulsifies fat to take some of the load off the liver.

Ginger is beneficial for the entire digestive system, cardiovascular system. Rose hips (powdered) are full of vitamin C and they taste delicious. Pumpkin seeds raw and ground help the body to rid itself of worms and parasites. (Herb information sourced from www.naturalhorse.com).

Chaff is a high fibre food and aids digestion encouraging the horse to chew it’s food more thoroughly.

i) cubes/pellets/nuts
Concentrate cubes or nuts are a compound feed and contain forage and concentrate rations so are very high in fibre. They are best for horses who are unable to eat hay, or when hay is expensive. Succulents should be fed as well because they can be boring to the horse. There are cubes designed for broodmares, yearlings, foals, racehorses, and eventers.

Pellets are high in protein and are fed with cereals and roughage. Compound feeds contain a good balance of nutrients so no supplements need to be added.

j) Coarse mixes are designed to make up the entire concentrate ration, they are highly palatable and a combination of cereals and bulk feeds with added vitamins, minerals, trace elements and protein. They can contain all or some of the following; nuts, pellets, barley, maize, molasses, grass meal, rolled oats, linseed and bran.

k) Succulents includes root vegetables such as carrots, swedes, turnips, parsnips and beets. They can contain good sources of vitamins, minerals and trace elements, depending on the soil they were grown in. Carrots are cooling and easily digested. They contain beta-carotene and Vitamin A, and can be useful for horses off their food, or for those short on grass. The other vegetables are of less nutritional value but are enjoyed by horses. They are good for fussy feeders and those with stable vices.

l) Hay is the most common type of forage that is fed to horses, and it is approximately 28 to 38% fibre, and has a low DE level. Hay is high in calcium and low in phosphorous as well as high levels of potassium and vitamins A, E and K. If it is dried in the sun it also contains high levels of Vitamin D. The protein content of hay depends on two things - the type of hay and the age of the hay when cut. Legume hays have higher protein content than grass hays and the younger the hay the higher the protein level. The hay should have a high leaf content, few weeds, and should smell pleasant and slightly sweet. There should be no visible mould, and no dust. The hay should be green rather than yellow or brown.

m) haylage/horsehage - this is an alternative form of hay. This is hay (often alfalfa) which is harvested, and then stored in anerobic conditions while it still has a relatively high moisture content. It is often baled as usual and coated with heavy plastic to encourage fermentation. This (if done well) maintains high levels of nutrients in the hay. It has high levels of protein, carbohydrates, carotene, and vitamins, although lower than sun-cured hay in Vitamin D.

Recommended Reading
   

Nutrition of the Horse

Ever wondered what was in your horses feed, and how your horse utilises it - or if he needs it?

Carbohydrate
Carbohydrates are the main source of energy and are crucial for correct muscle function and movement, as well as for essential body processes such as breathing, digestion, growth, pregnancy and lactation. Carbohydrates also provide warmth, while any surplus is stored as fat. Starch is a carbohydrate made up of a large number of glucose molecules and makes up 50-70% of cereal grains dry matter. Horses break down starch into glucose in the small intestine where it is then absorbed into the blood. The pancreatic juices contain an enzyme called Amylase which is secreted into the Duodenum which breaks down starch into maltose. Large amounts of starch should not be fed to a horse at one time as the small intestine may not be able to digest all the starch quickly enough.

Protein
Proteins are required for growth, muscular development and for the renewal of body cells as well as for health during pregnancy and lactation. Proteins contain essential amino acids which can only be provided by the food given to the horse. During digestion proteins are absorbed as amino acids and used for growth and tissue repair. In the stomach pepsin begins the breakdown of proteins. The pancreatic juices contain an enzyme called Trypsin which is secreted into the Duodenum which breaks down proteins into peptides then into amino acids. Enzymes are also always proteins and they act as catalysts and speed up chemical reactions within the body.

Lipids
Lipids provide energy and promote the renewal of fat tissue which is required for warmth. They are only needed in small quantities as they are not easily digested and can inhibit the absorption of other nutrients. Horses digest vegetable oil very well and it does not disrupt the microbial environment in the hindgut. Lipase begins the breakdown of lipids in the stomach and the liver secretes bile to the Duodenum, which emulsifies lipids.

Fibre
The end products of fibre fermentation and digestion and can be used as an energy source throughout the day. Fibre is required to keep the digestive process working and moving the food particles through the gut. The digestion of fibre starts in the caecum through the process of fermentation. The caecum begins to digest the roughage through a fermentation process. This process is activated by bacteria and protozoa particular to each type of foodstuff. Cellulose is broken down to release fatty acids - a process which can take several days. The fermentation of cellulose is continued in the large colon.

Calcium (Ca) - is required for the correct formation and maintenance of the bones as well as for nerve conductivity, muscle contraction and in energy metabolism. It is also required for lactation and blood coagulation. Sources include grass, good meadow hay (containing timothy and orchard grass, limestone flour, alfalfa, and clover. A deficiency in calcium can increase the risk of fractures, skeletal defects and increased blood clotting time.

Phosphorous (P) - promotes healthy bone growth and energy production. Good sources of phosphorous are good hay, grass, cereals - especially bran. Deficiencies in phosphorous can lead to skeletal defects and poor growth in youngsters.

Magnesium (Mg) - aids the formation of bones and teeth and is involved in all forms of energy production, nerve and muscle function and normal cell metabolism. It can be found in most feedstuffs, particularly pulses, linseed, turnips, carrots, soya beans, alfalfa as well as good grass and well made hay.


Iron (Fe) - promotes the production of red blood cells and is essential to the formation of haemoglobin which carries oxygen in the blood. It is also necessary for the central nervous system to function. Iron can be found in deep rooted herbs such as comfrey and mineral blocks. A lack of iron may cause anaemia particularly if aggravated by a heavy worm infestation. As the iron contained in the red blood cells is recycled when the red blood cells die, iron is rarely lost from the body unless the horse has worms or sweats a lot from exercise. Additional Vitamin B will aid production of Iron in a horse.

Copper (Cu) - needed in the formation of hair, bone, cartilage and elastin. Copper promotes the utilisation of iron. It can be found in high levels in seed products such as linseed and in feedstuffs grown in soil containing the right levels of copper. Deficiencies show themselves as de-pigmentation of the coat - deficiencies are rare as normal feedstuffs provide adequate quantities.

Selenium (Se) - when used in conjunction with Vitamin E it is considered and anti-oxidant and that it can help prevent cell damage. Selenium can be found in herbage, linseed and supplements. Selenium is toxic if over-dosed. Deficiency signs include weak foals, anaemia, joint abnormalities and in some cases azoturia.

Vitamin A - boosts the horse’s immune system and helps the horse resist disease. It promotes healthy bone and tissue growth and fertility. It improves night vision (didn’t your Mum always say eat your carrots and you’ll see in the dark!) and the metabolism of fats and carbohydrates. Good sources are green leaves, carrots, good quality hay, and cod liver oil. The carotene present in the green leaves is converted into Vitamin A by the horse. Signs of deficiency include suppressed appetite, poor growth, loss of condition, increased susceptibility to respiratory infections, infertility, skin disorders and diarrhoea.

Vitamin D - aids the absorption of calcium and phosphorous in the gut, thus preventing bone defects. It is made under the skin by the horse when in the sunlight and is found in sun cured hay. Cod liver oil may be used in the winter and Greenland where they have no sun for months! Signs of deficiency include swollen joints, skeletal defects and lameness. Overdose is possible and not advised.

Biotin - Biotin is a B vitamin and improves the hoof wall structure, metabolism of fats, proteins and carbohydrates. It is also related to the synthesis of glycerol for body fats, RNA and DNA. Carrots and bananas contain biotin. Since it cannot be stored, it must be present in the daily diet. Likewise, since it is not stored, if an excess of biotin is given in the daily diet, the unused portion is cast off in the urine. Deficiency signs are poor hoof condition and skin changes.

Salt  - Salt should be fed to your horse - especially in spring and autumn when there is excess grass growth and excess potassium. Approximately 2-4 tablespoons per day in the feed. Salt licks are not enough. Without salt in the grass growing seasons your horse could suffer from Grass Tetany.

Digestable Energy - Feeding your Horse

Sometimes you will see these terms on feed bags - I hope this helps you translate the information.

DE - Digestible energy refers to the amount of energy in a particular food or diet that can absorbed by the horse. Digestible energy can be can be sourced from starch, fat, protein and fibre. Digestible energy requirements are based on the maintenance Digestible energy plus any energy expended by the horse during exercise. Performance horses in heavy training have a very high DE requirement and sometimes cannot or will not eat enough to meet this. Fat can therefore be added to increase the energy density of the diet.

GE stands for Gross Energy and measures the energy content of food. The basic unit of heat energy is the calorie but the energy content of horse feed is usually measured in kilocalories (1000 calories) or megacalories (1,000,000 calories). The three energy producing components of feed have different GE contents. Carbohydrates contain 4.15 kcal per gram, Fats contain 9.4 kcal per gram and Proteins contain 5.65 kcal per gram. The more strenuous the work, a greater amount if energy should be supplied to the horse in the form of carbohydrates as they are needed to replace muscle glycogen used during work. The form of energy, not just the amount supplied, to a horse is important.

Recommended Reading.

  

Grooming a horse

Grooming a horse - if you have never done it before can be a bit of a mystery - which brush to use when?

Before grooming the grooming kit should be collected and placed in the area where the horse will be groomed. The horse should be caught and brought to the grooming area and secured by a lead rope attached (with a quick release knot) to a piece of string which is attached to a metal ring or firm object. 

After being safely secured their feet must be picked out with a hoof pick every day and before and after riding. The hook pick is about 10cm long and is used for cleaning out the hoof.

A brief brush over with a dandy brush will be sufficient, especially when the horse is kept rugged up. Grooming should start at the top of the neck and move down to the back of the horse, using a rug to keep the horse warm on the half you are not grooming if required. The dandy brush is a wooden backed brush with strong bristles of plastic or nylon. The brush is used to remove dried mud and sweat from the body of the horse.

The dandy brush is used with a brisk light movement, following the direction of the hair growth, finishing with a slight flick which helps ensure the mud isn’t buried in the coat again. It will not remove too much grease from the coat which a grass kept horse requires for warmth and water-proofing.

The dandy brush should not be used on the face, and should be used carefully on other sensitive parts of the horse like the belly and legs.

When grooming a grass kept horse who is particularly muddy or moulting in spring - a rubber curry comb can be used in a circular motion to loosen the dirt and remove excess hair. A rubber curry comb should not be used on a horses legs or face. After riding the saddle and girth areas should be checked for injury and the saddle area sponged down.

A sweat scraper can then be used to remove excess water and then a body brush once dry. The sweat scraper should be used in the direction the hair grows. The body brush should be used with sweeping strokes in the same direction that the hair grows.

In summer the legs should be checked for bot eggs and removed with a bot knife.

The mane should be brushed with a body brush. Firstly by turning the mane over to the far side and brushing the roots. Next one section at a time should be brought back and brushed from the roots down (starting from the wither). The forelock should be brushed in the same way. The tail should be brushed with the body brush carefully so as not to break the hairs. By standing at the side of the horse by the tail, after brushing the top of the tail, once section of the tail at a time should be de-tangled and brushed.

The eyes and dock area should be washed with a damp sponge (one kept especially for each area). The eye should be washed from the back towards the tear duct so that no dirt or dust is returned to the eye. When cleaning the dock, the tail should be lifted gently from the side of the horse, and the whole underside of the tail and dock area should be sponged. The nose and the lips should be carefully sponged as well - ensuring the sponge is rinsed clean each wipe.

Horses with brittle feet may benefit from having some kind of hoof oil applied daily (with a brush). Hooves should be washed and dried if they are muddy before applying the hoof oil. Natural Hoof Oil is a great option. 

The Tools explained

1. The body brush

The body brush is oval shaped and has short soft bristles which are sometimes made of horse hair. The back is either wooden or leather. A loose band fits across the back where the hand goes to secure it when using. The bristles of machine made brushes are plugged into a wooden base.

Hand made brushes have each tuft of bristles secured usually by wire to the base before a wooden top is screwed and glued into place. The body brush is used for removing dirt and grease from the coat and for brushing the head and mane. The body brush can be washed by dipping the bristles into soapy water, and then rinsing in clean water - and dried with the bristles facing down. The body brush should be used with a curry comb - the curry comb cleaning the hair from the brush after every 3-4 strokes. Loose hairs must be removed from the body brush before and after it has been used.

2. Water brush.

The water brush is narrower in shape (more like a scrubbing brush shape) and has longer bristles than a body brush. The bristles are fairly stiff but still softer than a dandy brush. It is used for scrubbing hooves and for laying (dampening down) the mane and tail.

3. Sweat scraper

The sweat scraper is a band of metal either shaped like a half moon and attached to a wooden handle, or flat with a handle at each end so that the groom can bend it. Usually one metal edge is covered with rubber (or made of plastic) and this is the edge which is used to scrape excess water from the horse’s body. It should never be used on the horse’s legs or bony parts of the body. The rubber should be cleaned after each use, and not left in the sun.

4. Metal curry comb

The metal curry comb is a flat square of metal with protruding blunt teeth on one side. This is attached to a wooden handle. The teeth are used to scrape the body brush clean. It must never be used on a horse. The edge should be tapped on the floor to remove the hair and dirt.

5. Rubber curry comb

A rubber curry comb is a softer oval version of the metal curry comb and is sometimes also made of plastic (which is not as good). It can be used gently in a circular motion on grass kept horses to remove caked mud and sweat, and to help remove loose hair in the spring. It must never be used on the head, mane or tail. These can be washed in soapy water to keep clean.

6. Mane and Tail comb

This is a strong toothed comb made of metal or plastic. The mane and tail combs should not be used to comb the tail or mane. The narrow combs should only be used when plaiting the tail or mane. These can be washed in soapy water to keep clean. Regular checks should be made to ensure that rust does not ruin the combs.

7. Dandy brush

The dandy brush is wooden backed and has strong bristles made of nylon or plastic. The bristles of machine made brushes are plugged into a wooden base. Hand made brushes have each tuft of bristles secured usually by wire to the base before a wooden top is screwed and glued into place. The dandy brush is used for removing dried mud and dirt from the body. The dandy brush can be washed by dipping the bristles into soapy water, and then rinsing in clean water - and dried with the bristles facing down. It will not remove large amounts of grease. It is used with a light brisk movement in the same direction as the horse’s hair lies, and finished with a slight flick. Loose hairs must be removed from the dandy brush before and after it has been used.

Have fun grooming your horse!

   

Mycotoxins in grasses - how it effects horses

From time to time you may notice behavioural changes in your horse, for no obvious reason. If these changes include more than a few of the following symptoms, your horse may be suffering from the effects of grass mycotoxins.

• General grumpiness
• An unwillingness to be touched or tensing up and reacting when touched, especially around chest and thorax
• Appears somewhat 'stiff', stepping short behind.
• Cinchiness/girthiness, not standing for saddling/mounting,
• General grumpiness when ridden (e.g. pinning ears, swishing tail, etc),
• Tightness, tenseness, impulsiveness, wanting to run off,
• Can't use your legs,
• Reaching around to bite the girth when ridden.
• Seems to be stiff especially in the hindquarters
• Uncomfortable to ride, bunny-hops at the canter
• Crossfires
• Touchy around ears, difficulty with bridling,
• Jumps away suddenly when attempting to halter 
• Sore across the loins
• Excessive aggressiveness towards you or other horses 
• Excessive herd bound behaviour (irrationally attached to another horse). 
• Bucking (quite violent and 'out of the blue'),
• Galloping off in short bursts,
• 'Nutty' or 'ballistic' behaviour.
• Excessive spookiness/alertness,
• Shies away when approached, hard to catch,
• 'Spaced out', 'wired', 'not there', hallucinating,
• Eyesight seems to be affected, can't judge jumps,
• Overly claustrophobic, extremely sensitive to noise (reluctant to ride close to the arena wall, rushes off the float, etc).

Staggers related:

• Heavy on the forehand, stumbling over nothing
• Standing 'base-wide'
• Difficulty backing up, out of floats, etc
• Discomfort walking downhill
• Slightly drunk or 'spaced out' looking
• Uncoordinated movement, staggering
• Laying down a lot in the paddock
• Dragging back feet, reluctant to go forward
• Reluctant to canter, won't canter.

and Heat Stress related

• Quickly overheats when you put covers on,
• Running madly around paddock for no reason (while other horses aren't),
• Slamming into fences/gates
• Excessive sweating, white sweat
• smelly sweats
• Sweating in unusual places (e.g. on top of rump, patches on upper neck),
• General agitation
• Fence walking

All of these symptoms can be attributed to mycotoxins in the grasses. Mycotoxins means Fungal Poisons. I found with my horses the Ergot Fungus in paspalum created a hallucinogenic type symptom as well in my horse.

It's very scary because your horse is no longer the horse you know and love - they seem bi-polar and crazy.

Treatment

• Add salt to the diet - most diets are short on salt and high in potassium which cannot be excreted through urine without enough salt. Initially for a full size horse 2 tablespoons a day increasing to 3-4.
• Get a good toxin binder - for example Mycosorb.
• Add Magnesium Oxide to the feed - 2 Tablespoons per day at least. Dolomite is not as readily bio-available.
• Get a Homeopathic remedy 'Stramonium' 30c and give 5mls twice a day in the mouth
• Remove from grass until symptoms subside.

To cover or not to cover

Should we use covers for horses?
They are horses right?
They are used to all weathers and so should be fine.... right?

But we can't help but add our Human thoughts and feelings to the horse, usually our companion - not just a horse! It's called Anthropomorphism. Adding human thoughts and feelings to an animal, in this case the horse.

In the wild
Ok - so in the wild - they don't have covers. And they cope just fine. That's usually the main argument against covers.

But - in the wild - they don't have fences so they they can wander and graze in unspoiled pasture, free of parasites. They can get shade under a tree, or shelter from the rain and wind. They have access to clean water, and can wander for miles. So there are a few differences!

Insulation
Horses certainly do fine without covers - but you need to get them ready for not having a cover. Don't just take your horses cover off late Autumn and say - there you go - no cover for winter now. Your horse needs to be able to build up it's winter coat, and the little muscles that raise the hair from his skin need strengthening so his natural insulation can start working. This takes time - a good month or two.

When we add covers every day the horse cannot raise the hairs on his skin to keep him warm. Think about when you get cold - you get goosebumps and the hair stands on end - this causes a layer of air to be trapped on your skin - helping to keep you warm. Same thing with the horse - only adding a cover, day and night, does not allow the horse (who quite frankly has way more hair than us), to raise the hair. These muscles then get weak so it takes some time to build them up to their full insulating selves once more.

Winter coats
Horse start shedding their coats when the days get shorter or longer - it's based on the daylight hours not the temperature. So even if it's still really warm in Autumn - your horse will be shedding his summer coat and growing his winter one. If your horse is kept in artificial light (stables etc) then this will interrupt that natural pattern and the horse will not be able to grow his coat as normal.

If you do allow your horse to grow his winter coat naturally, he'll be fine without a cover as long as he or she has access to shade and shelter from the rain and wind. You'll need to also make sure you feed adequate hay to keep your horse warm too. Eating and digesting food creates warmth.

Rain and wind
If you don't have trees on your property or where your horse grazes it may be an idea to have a rain-sheet cover (with no fill) to put on him when it's really raining hard or a stormy night. This will stop him getting too cold and wet. If he or she has access to  trees and or cover/shelter - then there is no real need.

Free Access
My horses have free access to covered yards, off their track system. This way they can come and go as they please. They tend to shelter in there from the sun, and if the rain is torrential. Also if the wind is coming from behind the yards.... they can get shelter there. They don't tend to go in there when it's stormy and the wind is blowing into the yards. See below.

Shampoo

Don't over clean your horse - they need the natural oils in their coats to help them stay warm in the winter. If you wash it out every time you ride, they'll get cold without a cover. Remember - no shampoo in the wild.

What about their legs

Ok so we add covers to keep them warm - but what about their legs and face? We can't pick or choose which parts of our body we heat or cool, say if we have cold feet and put slippers or socks on - ultimately our whole body warms up.

Same with the horse - if we add a cover and their legs are still cold (because they are bare) the horse will try and heat it's whole body up - and overheat under the cover. Quite simple really.

So ultimately - a horse who is able to regulate it's own temperature naturally is going to be healthier and happier. Try and stay cover free and only add light rain covers if you have no shelter so that they don't weigh down the horses hairs. And take the covers off when it's stopped raining.

Mud

Horses love mud and dust - they use it to avoid parasites and to help them regulate temperature as well. How many times have you washed your horse only for he or she to go and roll immediately? We don't think it's funny - but I am sure they do!

Let your horse be a horse - the dry mud brushes off, as does the dust. Again they'll be happier and healthier left to their on devices. My horses never get colds or get ill, while others kept artificially are constantly sick or picking up the latest airborne virus!